For over 40 years, Parisian jeweller Lydia Courteille has been confounding jewellery houses of Place Vendôme with her bold, brazen designs. Starting her career as an antique jewellery dealer, she soon launched her own brand and began creating miracles in the language of jewellery. Her passion culminated in the publication of her first book, Extraordinary Jewellery of Imagination and Dreams. In this interview for NARGIS Magazine, Lydia shares the magic of her jewellery with our readers.
True elegance lies in subtlety
Tell us the story of establishing your brand. When did you first realise you wanted to pursue a career as a jewellery designer?
At the time, I was pregnant and taking a break from my career in biochemistry. While I prepared for motherhood, I found myself drawn to the world of jewellery. This curiosity led me to enrol in a gemmology school. It was here that I discovered a new passion, aligned more with my heart than my scientific background. At first, I thought of working as an antique jewellery dealer. But it quickly became clear that this was more than a transitional phase – it was the beginning of something bigger.
Your collections have different topics and stories. Which one feels the closest to your personality, or perhaps your favourite?
From the beginning, I’ve approached each collection as an initiatory journey – like a chapter in a larger story. Every piece carries its own narrative and spirit. I’ve always viewed them not just as jewellery, but as a way to explore deeper themes, emotions, and ideas.
Each collection captures where I was emotionally and creatively at a given moment in time, so choosing a favourite one is difficult. That said, if I had to choose one collection that feels particularly close to my heart, it would probably be the Deep Sea collection, where I worked with Australian opals. There is something magical about opals, especially Australian opals, with their rich play of colour and depth. They evoke the mystery and beauty of the ocean, something that has always fascinated me. The way opals seem to hold entire universes within them, shifting and glowing with light, became a perfect metaphor for the personal journey I was going through at the time.
How do you manage to create another dimension in your works?
The notion of pushing limits and creating pieces that challenge convention is at the core of everything I do. I don’t see jewellery as decoration; it’s a language, a form of artistic expression, and an invitation for people to connect with art in a very personal way. Jewellery becomes a bridge between the everyday and the extraordinary.
I want my customers to feel that they’re wearing more than just an adornment. Something that provokes thought, speaks creativity, and celebrates the beauty of art in all its forms. Whether they’re drawn to the fantastical intricacies of Bosch, the dreamlike visions of Dalí, or the abstract beauty of de Staël.
Each collection is built with an analysis of the subject, allowing me to explore its various interpretations. This method enables me to create designs that are not only aesthetically compelling but also conceptually layered and rich in meaning.
When you get dressed in the morning, what do you choose first?
I usually start with a dress, then choose the shoes and a coat.
What do you do to ensure your finished piece evokes an emotional response?
Colour and symbolism – always! My designs are very figurative, which means that I strive to create pieces that are immediately recognisable and deeply rooted in visual language. The colours I choose play a crucial role, as colour has the power to trigger emotions, whether it’s warmth, tranquillity, tension, or urgency.
Beyond colour, I incorporate symbols – both religious and political. These symbols carry deep meanings that transcend the purely aesthetic. Political ones reflect the current climate of our society, encouraging thought and conversation around contemporary issues. By merging these visual cues with my designs, I aim to create pieces that not only capture attention but also prompt introspection. It’s this fusion of colour, form, and symbolism that I believe gives my work its emotional depth, allowing it to resonate with people on a much more personal level.
Do you believe in signs?
Sometimes, but I’m not very superstitious. I don’t want to depend on them.
What does “an eye” symbolise in the Love Story collection?
When the Prince of Wales first saw Maria Fitzherbert at the opera in 1784, it was love at first sight. However, British law forbade him from marrying her, as she was a Catholic. History tells us that George and Maria were secretly wed, and they exchanged miniature portraits depicting each other’s eyes. These miniature paintings, rendered in watercolour on ivory and set into jewels, served as tokens of their love for one another. Because each portrayed only a single eye, the lovers’ anonymity was preserved.
Do you think the design of a masterpiece should suit one’s lifestyle?
When you wear a piece of art every day, like an unusual ring or an intricately designed pendant, it becomes more than just an accessory. It turns into a statement, a true expression of who you are. The beauty of wearing art regularly is that it transforms the ordinary into something extraordinary.
How do you stay true to your bold style, even if some people don’t immediately connect with it?
I don’t design for the masses. My creations speak to a refined audience: individuals who understand that true luxury is not defined by price tags or showy displays of wealth.
I design for those who live with intention and who recognize rarity and craftsmanship when they see it.
Luxury is not just about acquisition; it’s about exclusivity. True elegance lies in subtlety – in a piece that stands apart not because it demands attention, but because it quietly tells a story.
I strive to create pieces that are immediately recognisable and deeply rooted in visual language
